19.09.2024

Storytelling

The secular story of Jeans

Blue jeans are one of the most popular and versatile garments in the world, loved for various qualities that make them an iconic piece. But what is their history?

Let’s begin our story, as always, starting from the basics: the raw material and its processing. Denim is a twill fabric made from cotton threads. The warp threads are dyed blue, and due to the denim's weave structure, they appear more visible on the surface of the fabric. The weft threads are left white and are visible on the reverse side. Traditionally, the blue threads are dyed with indigo through a process known as "rope dyeing." In this process, groups of threads are dipped into vats of indigo dye and then lifted into the air (a step known as "skying"). To achieve a rich and deep blue, the dye is applied in multiple layers.

Perhaps not everyone knows that, although tradition holds that jeans were invented in America, their name comes from a fabric with Italian origins. The "bleu de Gênes," from which blue jeans get their name, was the typical color of fustian fabric used by Genoese sailors on ships as early as the 17th century to make sails and simple clothing. Traces of this material can still be found today in genre paintings by the so-called Master of the Jeans canvas.

With the intensification of maritime trade during the 19th century, the fabric arrived in America, and in 1853, it was chosen by a work apron manufacturer for its resistance to tears and stains. Levi Strauss & Co. of San Francisco soon specialized in producing denim for miners' overalls. On May 20, 1873, in collaboration with tailor Jacob Davis, the first "XX" pants were patented and produced. This model would later become known as Levis 501. These trousers had metal rivets added to the pockets and a button to the front, making them particularly durable. These were likely the world's first jeans.

It is estimated that today at least 50% of the world's population owns a pair of blue jeans, but at the time, this garment was primarily intended for workers, prisoners, and cowboys. The designs varied depending on the use: wide, low pockets for those on horseback, and high overalls for those working in the fields. Starting in 1890, when jeans fabric became synonymous with trousers and the Levi's patent expired, any manufacturer could freely produce pants identical to the patented overalls. The main competitors were Harry David Lee and C.C. Hudson, now known as the brands Lee and Wrangler. Also in 1890, the pocket for watches and coins was added.

In the 20th century, denim models continued to evolve, moving jeans beyond mere uniforms and into the realm of leisurewear. In 1905, a second back pocket was added to jeans. Belt loops were introduced only in 1922, while in 1926, the zipper replaced traditional buttons (the buttons for suspenders were finally abolished only in 1937). In 1935, the first women's jeans were launched. In 1937, blue jeans appeared for the first time in Vogue magazine, thus entering the history of fashion.

From TV screens to hip-hop stages, blue jeans have continued to adapt to Western life, changing shape, fabric, and color, while maintaining their customary versatility. Denim is a material that never ceases to surprise, and its qualities and shades adapt perfectly to home textiles, adding a touch of originality and timeless style to our favorite spaces.